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The Momentum of the TUXEDO

In 1930 Marlene Dietrich made a scandalous statement when she donned a tuxedo in the movie 'Morocco'. Thirty years later, Yves Saint Laurent made this look popular again on the runway.  For Fall 2011, one of my favorite brands, Salvatore Ferragamo has  reintroduced us to this androgynous classic, with a velvet twist!

http://coolspotters.com/brands/salvatore-ferragamo/and/clothing/salvatore-ferragamo-fall-2011-rtw-silk-velvet-tuxedo#medium-1621978

                                                                                                                                                             

"Clothes are more important than ever, as nudism is definitely out."

The Notorious Mrs. Fellows

                                                                                                                                                                 

While visiting The Musee Bourdelle exhibit of Madame Grés fabulous fashions in Paris this June, I came across this charming article from Harpers Bazaar, published on March 15th 1938:

If you don't like full skirts, turn your eyes to the left.  Alix is making these graceful dinner dresses with square necks and tight drapery pulled over the form and held firmly with a twist of material.  They are not always dead black, but often chalk white, which looks much newer for little dinners.  Long sleeves replace the done-to-death jacket and white sandles emphasize the whiteness of the white.  Some have no apparent fulness but cling to the body like a wet cloth, flat in front with the new tight drapery behind.

Chanel also provides for those who hate bouffant skirts by her straight strapless black dresses with naked tops like Sargents portraits of Madame X, the line of the décolletage cut heart shaped and the skirts flowing out toward the hem.

Molyneux does slinky black dresses with little pointed trains and a series of princesse dresses that are plain or printed and very easy to wear.

Mainbocher gives you a new silhouette with a simple moulded top and a slim skirt with a gathered flounce, like a lampshade put on just before the crucial point of the dérriere.

Schiaparelli also makes long sleeved dinner dresses but with jackets still appear in Schiaparelli's collection, and these are woolen jackets embroidered in gold and beads or else satin jackets with large embroidered silk motifs.  They are worn over simple molded dresses with brassiere tops.

Fresher for Spring are Schiaparelli's printed evening dresses with their variously shaped hoods that slip down like capes over the shoulders.

Fur boleros are shown over all of these molded dinner dresses and the smartest are black fox or silver fox mounted on the black crepe de Chine skintight to the figure, to make you think that hips are thin as air.

                                                                                                                                                                      

"I think the idea of mixing luxury and mass-market fashion is very

 modern - wearing head-to-toe designer has become a bit passe.

 It's a new era in fashion - there are no rules. It's all about the

 individual and personal style, wearing high-end, low-end,  

classic labels, and up-and-coming designers all together."

Alexander McQueen

                                                                                                              

Costuming Cleverness in Berlin:

There are always new and interesting things happening in the world of art and fashion in Berlin.  Check out this link to a man who has created his own niche in this wild city:

http://schwelle7.de/JavierMurugarren.html